Milford Track

Disclaimer:

So I did try to limit the photos... but it was virtually impossible to try and make some of the decisions to exclude things. Milford Track is one of the most beautiful hikes we have ever done. There is a reason they call it the "Finest Walk in the World" (as Kevin repeated every day during the hike).

Milford Track - Day 1 - 2/28/17

As mentioned above, Milford Track is the premier walking track in New Zealand. It is extremely hard to book... in fact it books 6 months in advance in the span of 2 hours. Luckily, Kevin is very organized and persistent. 

The morning of day 1 started like any other morning... breakfast is the best time of daaaay. Afterwards we did some final shopping for snacks and such, then picked up our hut tickets at the visitor's center before we hit the road. We drove about 25 minutes to Te Anau Downs, which is a boat dock that seems to be dedicated to the Milford Track hike. 

Another winning brunch at Sandfly Cafe. Yes that is bacon in Stef's pancakes. Yes Kevin is not awake yet.

Lake Te Anau from Te Anau Downs

Boarding the boat that will take us to the start of the track. It's the bigger white boat that is behind that blue boat.

Our boat was scheduled for 1:00PM, and they were timely. We boarded 15 minutes early and then they actually left 3 minutes early. If you were on time for that boat, you were late. The boat ride would take about an hour, taking us to the end of Lake Te Anau, with lovely vistas during of course.

The passengers were a mixed group of independent and guided trampers. The Milford Track is a little different in that you can pay an exorbitant ($1500 NZD or so? - multiply by .69 currently for USD exchange) amount of money to stay in 3 huts that have all your normal hotel luxuries, plus have coffee and separate shelters along the way, plus have guides, and plus I think they might even get some sort of luggage service. Conversely, the independent trampers (us), get to stay in separate huts that don't even have showers. We get solar-powered lighting for ~3 hours, gas stoves, running water, beds/ chairs/ tables, and a roof over our heads. That is all.

So excited!

Bottom level of boat

Loaded up with all of the backpacks

That cross is a memorial to one of the early explorers of the region whose boat supposedly capsized there.

This is the top deck. A bit crowded but you can see why.

Is that a real place outside the window?

Landing in fairy land. We had to walk through some tubs of water to make sure we didn't have any Didymo on our boots. It's a sort of algae that they are trying to keep from spreading.

After this we rushed to begin hiking. We learned from Kepler that the sooner you are at the hut, the better bunk you get. Kevin and I are relatively fast hikers compare to the rest of the bunch, so it wasn't too much of a concern, but it still didn't hurt to get going and not get stuck behind anyone. Today would be a short and flat hike through the forest for only 3 miles. Since your boat is getting in so late (~2pm), I guess they figured you don't want to get in too late to the hut.

Official beginning of the track

Off we go!

After about a mile, we got to Glade House, which is the fancy place that the guided trampers were staying at. It was nice that they would always start behind us, so we wouldn't really run into them over the course of the next 3 days.

Our first swing bridge crossing over Clinton River

The trail was a bit eroded in parts

Lots of green truss bridges to cross as well. Crazy, cliffy mountain formations ahead along with crystal clear water!

Looking back behind us

And just look at the water color

Seriously look at it. Also, apparently that is a pass right there. That would be some pass to walk on...

Lovely following this river during the hike

More expansive views on the boardwalk

Short out & back viewpoint in the bog area... WOW 

After reading this sign, Kevin reminded Stef for the remainder of the trip (as in the rest of the time in NZ) that it's NOT JUST A BOG. 

We finally got to the hut and we were the first ones there that were on our boat. Some others were already there (about 15 out of 40 total that would be staying), so there must have been one other boat. We still got a great bunk (other than the snorers). Then it was time for dinner and the ranger's hut talk. We found out that at night, we could walk maybe 5-10 minutes from the hut alongside some rock outcroppings, and there would be glow worms there! 

At 9:30 we walked out with our headlamps and checked them out. Oh man there were a ton of these little blue/green guys underneath this rock hanging about 3-5 feet above our heads. It was pretty cool and unexpected to see. We later woke up again around midnight to do some stargazing and photos. This was the first time that Kevin has convinced me to do that, and I have to say that it was really magical to see the Milky Way so clearly. Also,we saw the Southern Cross, which is a constellation that you can only see in the southern hemisphere. The Subaru logo actually represents it.

Top bunk for Stef and bottom bunk for Kevin

About to make dinner in the common area. That's our stuff on the table.

A weka came to say hello after dinner

Clinton Hut

Glow Worms on rock face about 5-10 minutes walk from the hut

DAY 1 STATS:

3.07 miles, 1:00:01 total elapsed time, 92 ft. elevation gain, 43 ft. elevation loss 

Milford Track - Day 2 - 3/1/17

We woke up early the next day before sunrise to eat breakfast and get started on our much longer hike. The track would continue along the valley, remaining close to the river, and would remain flat until the last couple of miles. At that point, we would complete the easier part of the climb towards Mackinnon Pass. Mintaro Hut is about halfway up, but is more gradually graded that the rest of the climb. 

The views from the valley were simply stunning. As we continued the cliffs just continued to get higher and stretch out as far as we could see. We saw little lakes, tall waterfalls, lots of friendly sandflies, and gorgeous vegetation everywhere. We had to cross over a bit of a rock slide area on our way up to Mintaro Hut at the end, and it was a little jarring to have to climb after flat all day... we thought we would never get there, but we finally did. 

A bit of a tight squeeze there.

This is the rock slide area about a mile or two from Mintaro Hut

Another Weka!

We could see Mackinnon Pass for a bit, but this was finally a closer up and wider view of it. It is behind Kevin, at the top left of this photo. It was a bit clouded in at this point as you can see.

A Wood Pigeon (it's actually pretty large... like the size of 1 1/2 to 2 pigeons in the USA).

FINALLY made it to Mintaro Hut

After making it to the hut we actually relaxed for a while. We picked our bunks, had a snack, played a board game, and then finally at 3PM we thought, "Hmm I wonder if the clouds have cleared up." Clouds were covering part of Mackinnon Pass earlier in the day, but it was actually supposed to rain the next day. Since we might not have a good view the next day, we decided to go ahead and check out the pass without our packs.

It was supposed to take 2 and half hours to get to the top, but we managed to get there and back in less than 3 hours (including stopping for pictures at the top). At first it was flat for a third of a mile, but then we began descending steeply. There were a couple sections where signs warned that you shouldn't stop due to potential rock falls. Then, after a mile, it started getting STEEP next to us. It was much scarier than I thought it would be, so I got a bit more nervous than I should have (Stef talking here). We just took it slow and stepped carefully. The track was well graded, but the last few switchbacks were extremely rocky, and even if it isn't a cliff next to you, it sure LOOKS like it. 

We made it to the top of the pass, saw the cool monument there, saw the amazing valley on the other side, but were a bit sad that there were still some clouds. Kevin walked up next to 12 second drop and peered over. That is an actual cliff. There is a reason it has that name. Then we headed back, had dinner, and that was the evening!

Nice Lake in flat area before climb begins

Starts climbing not long after this swing bridge

No pictures of climb because scary. I'm sure Kevin has some. Maybe he'll post them.

Monument and valley beyond! Darn clouds.

Panorama at the pass

Close-up

Kevin next to 12 second drop. We weren't the only ones that went up just in case (4 total went up).

Little lake near top

Evening light looks stunning on craggy peaks

DAY 2 STATS:

11.81 miles, 4:22:38 total elapsed time, 1598 ft. elevation gain, 305 ft. elevation loss

Mintaro Hut to Mackinnon Pass round-trip stats: 
5:15 miles, 2:55:01 total elapsed time, 1627 ft. elevation gain & loss

Milford Track - Day 3 - 3/2/17

The next day we started off a bit later than we meant to. About 10-15 hikers had already started off before we got a chance to. But, that just meant we passed almost all of them on the way up the pass. Was sort of a fun game to distract from the steepness of the trail! Stef actually did better beating the fear on the climb this day, and we made it to the top with a rewards of impeccable weather and stunning views. What rain????

This is your view that you are walking next to as you climb above the treeline while you are going up the pass (final sets of switchbacks).

Rewarded with paradise. Kevin is standing at 12 second drop and pointing at the danger sign.

A little closer to 12 second drop... but that's it. Not going closer. Sorry.

Spot the Weka in this photo. Guess he wanted to check out the monument too.

You have to pinch yourself to realize you aren't dreaming

If you enlarge, you can see the monument in the distance. Actually we weren't at the true top of the pass. There is still a bit of climbing to be done after that.

Ok now this is the OFFICIAL top of the pass. Took another 20 minutes to get there... and there were more surprise cliffs on the way... much closer than Stef would like. 

View back towards the valley where Mintaro Hut was. Kevin likes walking up to the edge. 

I know there is another picture like this but look these little two lakes are cute too! Shh.

At the top of the pass is Mackinnon Shelter. There is a pit toilet there. It is called the loo with the view. There is a good reason for this.

There is a window in the toilet and just for your viewing pleasure, I memorialized this magical moment for you. 

Leaving Mackinnon Shelter. Ugghg look at those colors so awessssomee.

Mackinnon Shelter was pretty nice to have a snack in. It's there for emergency inclement weather, since the winds can get very strong on top of the pass. In fact the last 4 shelters before it were all blown off the top (seriously). There were a few benches inside, stoves, and a water tank full of collected rainwater. After this we continued down the other side of the pass which was considerably less steep and precarious.  

Making our way down that way

I'm glad we had no reason to use the emergency track. It just went straight down.

Finally in the treeline on the other side of the pass. We had a lot of elevation to lose.. much more than we gained. You will see the stats later.

First major waterfall along the way.

Anderson Cascade, this continued on for a long time next to us (30 minutes I think). Check out the unreal color of the water.

Panorama upwards sort of captures some of Anderson Cascade

We were continuously winding down on some stairs next to the Cascade. This is from rather high up as you can see... check out the color!

The cascade caused the rock to erode in a pretty cool way here.

There's a long one. 

At this point we had finally lost most of the elevation and our knees were hurting a bit. The good thing is we had 2 very nice things to look forward to: (1) a shelter with free coffee provided by the guided walkers hut that us plebeians were actually allowed to have and (2) getting to drop our pack at said shelter to do an hour-long out and back to Sutherland Falls. We relaxed and enjoyed the delicious coffee (who knew instant coffee could be so good) and a snack, then we started packless towards the falls. 

The trail rose steeply at first with newly constructed concrete steps for part of it. Apparently the other trail had washed away due to flooding, so they rebuilt it on the other side of the river and were trying to make it much sturdier. After the steep section it was flat and you could see the waterfall coming closer and closer. Man was it just gorgeous and giant... 

Lodge for the guided walkers

Free coffee in the shelter

Inside the shelter. We were the 2nd and 3rd people to get there. 

Swing bridge and falls behind!

Getting closer

Stef with signs detailing the height of each level. The bottom is actually much shorter than the other levels, so keep that in mind when you see the later pictures!

There we go! Sutherland Falls in all it's glory. Supposedly it's the 4th largest permanent waterfall in the world. 

Kevin getting a drink of water from the Falls.

I think this is actually my 360 degree photosphere of the area, but you actually get a good idea of the surrounding view from this.

After that we continued the short remaining walk to Dumpling Hut (about ~45 minutes at most for us). We continued to have lovely views of the valley as we walked that were a little more open than the tree-lined section prior to.

Funny cone-shaped mountain

So that lighter grey part in the rock at the top of the cliff is actually 12 second drop. No joke, that is quite the drop you are standing next to up there.

One last view of Sutherland

Kevin found a gargantuan earthworm (see end of trekking pole)

Boardwalk near hut

We were the 2nd and 3rd person to arrive at the hut and we got pretty awesome beds. No one above us with that setup! After that we walked over to the nearby stream to check out the view, then had a relaxed afternoon and evening.. especially given the long hike that day.

Awesome spots

Dumpling Hut is in a pretty awesome spot

At the nearby stream

DAY 3 STATS:

12.45 miles, 6:29:21 total elapsed time, 2431 ft. elevation gain, 3986 ft. elevation loss

Milford Track - Day 4 - 3/3/17

We woke up to rain.. sprinkling really. We were nearly the last to leave the hut, but we made up ground as usual. The hike was a lot of mileage but pretty flat. By the end of the hike, we were the among the top 10 (if not higher than that) to finish for the day. This was all well and good because it started to monsoon by the end of the hike. Water started to fill up the trail and it started so quickly we didn't really get our rain jackets on properly. Our outer layers were soaked. 

Prepping in front of the bunkrooms. Each door is a separate bunkroom.

Still some nice views despite the clouds

Bell Rock. It doesn't look like much from the outside, but you crawl on your hands and knees into a hole underneath it... and lo and behold it's hollow... and shaped like a bell inside!

Cool waterfall next to Bell Rock. This likely has something to do with the shape of the rock.

No day complete without a weka sighting

This section of the trail is called rock cutting.. they literally had to use dynamite to blast this section of the trail into the rock. You can't do it below due to a lake. It rises pretty steeply, but it's a very short section (3-5 minutes).

This is the famous bridge in front of Giant Gate Falls.. and check out that crystal clear water. 

Giant Gate Falls

Waiting at the Shelter at Sandfly Point. Thank god we could wait inside... there were literally 20-30 sandflies per each pack outside. 

 So after waiting at aptly named Sandfly Point for about 30 minutes, we were finally picked up by a boat to take us to shore. We managed to get on the 1PM boat, despite a sudden influx of people about 15 minutes after our arrival. The ride itself was only 10 minutes at most and dropped us off at the docks for Milford Sound. At this point we would have to figure out how to manage to get on an earlier bus than our 5:30PM booked time. Kevin walked around the bus lot, found the same company, and managed to secure an earlier departure time at 2:45PM! We were ecstatic.

We went to nearby cafe to wait until departure time and had a delicious butter chicken pie and mocha cappuccinos. The bus ride took about an hour and 30 minutes (or more perhaps) to get us back to Te Anau Downs but it was surprisingly awesome. The rain had caused a gazillion waterfalls to shoot of the sides of the cliffs. The road to Milford Sound is incredibly impressive with these cliffs everywhere and even a cool tunnel (Homer Tunnel) that cuts through one of the mountains just so you can even get over there. 

Taking the boat to Milford Sound docks

So many waterfalls!!

So so many!

Homer Tunnel up ahead

Entering Homer Tunnel

Inside Homer Tunnel which actually climbs steeply to the other side

More waterfalls! There were many more than this but these are just some of the pics I managed to take. I swear we would look out the window and see 20 at once.

Wild Hare and some Lamb is even more delicious after big hike.

DAY 4 STATS:

11.76 miles, 4:30:16 total elapsed time, 492 ft. elevation gain, 794 ft. elevation loss

TOTAL OVERALL STATS:

46.95 miles, 18:27:44 total elapsed time, 6637 ft. elevation gain, 7707 ft. elevation loss