Routeburn Track

Routeburn Track - Day 0 - 3/5/17

Routeburn Track involved a bit more logistics than our other tracks. Yes, if you read about Milford, you might be thinking what could be more logistics than having to take a boat and then a shuttle on the way back? Wait until I explain day 0 and day 1 to you. 

Unlike Milford where the start and the end are about 1:30 minutes distance from each other, the end of Routeburn vs. the start is probably 4 and half hours distance total (by car). The start is about 30 minutes past Glenorchy (an hour and a half from Queenstown). The end is at the Divide, which is about halfway to Milford Sound... so 3 hours from Queenstown. Since we had a rented car, this made things easier, but also a required some creativity.

We decided the best thing to do was to leave the car at the end (at the Divide), so that we could leave whenever we wanted when we finished the hike. So, that meant we would have to take a shuttle bus from the end of the hike to Queenstown on day 0 (as mentioned this is 3 hours total). The next day we would take another shuttle bus to the start of the hike (another 1 & half hours). 

So that meant day 0 was pretty easy... we bought some supplies, drove to the Divide, packed whatever we needed in our packs and then left the rest of our luggage in the car. The tricky thing was packing for the hotel in Queenstown. I probably ended up carrying more weight than normal since I wanted to have my phone wall charger with me and some other junk. Kevin did better about packing.

Below are some highlights from the day. See captions for details.

At the Divide waiting for our shuttle with all the other folks

This is what riding in buses and driving with Kevin is like

And this is what showering is like for Kevin. This is probably the worst hotel shower of the trip.

Queenstown as the sun begins to set

Queenstown docks

Very nice dinner outside with an awesome view of sunset. Stef felt a little underdressed in her in her hiking gear. 

Routeburn Track - Day 1 - 3/6/17

Day 1 was pretty simple. We only had our packs at the hotel with us so packing was easy. We went to breakfast, bought some things at the pharmacy and grocery store, then went to catch our bus. The driver arrived a little late (schedule was 12:15 but we weren't on the road until 12:45), but boy did he make up for it on the drive. The way to Glenorchy is very curvy with the road even narrowing in parts as it has been blown out of the rock.. he took those turns fast to the point that you were praying for safe arrival.

We stopped in Glenorchy where he dropped off 4 people, then we took a thirty minute break for lunch. The bus was really just a big van and it turned out we were the only passengers for the last bit to the Routeburn trailhead. The road was safer after this but surprisingly out of the way and the last little but was on gravel with barely room for more than one car.

Upon arrival we got prepared and then set off at about 3pm. We were sure we were the last ones on the trail at this point and were a little worried as to whether we would even get beds next to each other. 

Having lunch in Glenorchy

Start of Routeburn - prepping to go

And off we go! You can see the first swing bridge in the distance here.

The trail immediately crossed over a swing bridge and then began winding it's way through the forest. Eventually we were next to a river with the most unreal crystal clear, aqua water and tons of rapids. Next to the trail was a bit steep in parts next to the gorge, especially in sections where the trail was cut into the rock, but it wasn't unbearable given the amount of vegetation. About a mile into the hike we passed a couple also headed to the hut. They made a joke about being last to the hut and then seemed to really try to keep up with us for a bit. It was a nice try.

View from first swing bridge

Forest for part of the day

More swing bridges

Uh oh this is steep.. see warning sign

Oh yeah that's far below us.

On other side of that little bridge after warning sign.

Trail next to huge craggy areas

Craggy peaks across the river to us

Look at that water color!

Hey look another swing bridge (this is after we crossed it.

After about 4 miles we finally reached an open grassy area with expansive views of the surrounding valley. This is also where one of the huts is - called Routeburn flats. We were however in Routeburn falls.. so this meant we had something like another 2 miles to go... Uphill... Steeply. We were up for the challenge.

The flat expanse near Routeburn Flats Hut

We crossed a sort of sketchy swing bridge and then started having views down into the valley. Then we got to a part where the trail had again been cut into the rock. There was another slightly unnerving swing bridge here, but then we passed another couple on the way to the hut! The trail was wide and we got really nice views of the valley here... But then we got to the area where there had been a slip in the 80s. Thaaat was the nice view! I expected it to be steeper and scarier but there was shrubbery and a relatively wide trail.

This was a very bouncy and small swing bridge

Starting to see down into the valley from above

Getting a bit narrow there... this is where we passed the other couple (2nd pair)

Welcome to the slip

So that's pretty awesome. Thanks clouds for waiting for us.

After the slip, the trail got pretty steep again and started going over rocks, so they put handrails in just in case it's wet. I appreciated that. Not long after that we got to the hut. Our was on the right and the guided walkers had theirs on the left. Oh man what an awesome view and just in time before rain started a couple hours later. We walked to the helicopter pad for another viewpoint then walked to Routeburn Falls which was also right there. 

See handrail next to Kev

Finally at Routeburn Falls Hut!

View from the hut. 

What our top bunks look like

Most scenic spot for an information board

Part of common area

Another view of common area. This was NICE. Definitely a great use of space.

View at Routeburn Falls Hut as well as the independent walker's hut behind (you can sort of see it in pic). This is from the helicopter launch pad.

Helicopter launch pad view

Pano in same spot

Routeburn Falls

Routeburn Falls pano - you can see another level of the cascade

It was a shorter day but a nice way to start things off. We were super happy with our room setup and we felt like this was the nicest hut we stayed at all trip. Each bunk had its own private cubby for your personal items. We felt like we had more privacy​ on the top bunk and for once we weren't dying of heat exhaustion in our sleeping base layers.

Day 1 Stats: 

5.82 miles, 2:19:12 total elapsed time, 1870 ft elevation gain, 252 ft elevation loss 

Routeburn Track - Day 2 - 3/7/17

The next day started off cloudy due to the prior day's rain. We weren't in a huge rush to start since we wanted to give it a chance to clear, so we began around 9.

A bit cloudy from the hut in the morning

First we climbed steeply past the waterfall. There were even some more handrails in case it was slippery... Which it was. Then we began walking in this large flat area surrounded by peaks. This still required a bit of a climb as we moved through it, especially to get above Lake Harris. At one point there was even a Kea traffic jam! 

Walking around the lake was a bit nerve wracking as we were high above it.. but just step carefully. Even so, going downhill on a rocky path next to a drop is not my favourite. You know this. 

Some blue sky ahead and a big sort of flat area to cross

Kea traffic jam!!! Look at the boardwalk. Also note the elation on that guy's face. That is what everyone's face usually looks like in the presence of a kea.

Kea standing on a trap

They are curious what we are doing

Of course he came right up to us

Mountain to our right as we hiked through that area on our way to Lake Harris

Behind us, looking back at where Routeburn Falls is as we are almost at the end of this part

Some huge boulders up ahead

Well hopefully that won't decide to fall today

First views of Lake Harris

Some board walk on the final climb to Lake Harris

Made it to the top!

And behind us is what we climbed that morning so far

Pretty high above that lake.. and Kevin walks right up to it.

Downhill sections that Stef didn't like...... at least it's pretty wide in most parts. Around that corner is an example of not cool.

After turning a corner, we saw Harris Saddle and the shelter on top of it. Of course there was a separate one for guided vs independent walkers. We had a snack then dropped our bags to go up conical hill. There were all sorts of warning signs about steep edges and rocky slopes so when we got to a part that was huge steps up a rock with a big drop below it.. well I decided I didn't want to continue. 

I went to the shelter and finished reading 1984 while Kevin did the rest of the hike. He returned to tell me that that was literally the only scary part. Of course.... You just never know. Maybe he will post some pics from conical hill later as is sounds like he got an awesome 360 view up there. It took him an hour roundtrip to do it.

Looking down at Harris Saddle and the shelter there

On the way to Conical Hill, we got to that... that rock is what Kevin somehow walked up. I looked at that, then looked at the view in the next picture, then decided NOPE.

Getting up that rock is probably not too bad... but walking down that way later while this is directly below you would be terrifying (for Stef).

Reading my book, waiting for Kevin, and looking at the switchbacks that go up towards Conical Hill.

Finally some amazing snowcapped mountains grace us

Conical Hill at a different angle. After that steep spot, you just go up the center and it isn't all that scary (from what I can tell).

Trail ahead after Harris Saddle

After that we continued our hike together on what the NZ DOC website calls the " rocky, exposed hollyford face". Yes it was pretty much a balcony trail we amazing views of a snowcapped, glaciated mountain range beyond. It would shift between not being very steep to being rather steep next to us.. always with trees below.. but not necessarily right next to us. I focused on my feet in those sections but I was definitely not pleased to find out that the trail was definitely narrower than Kepler. I might have been more nervous this whole day than I was for most of the scary day of Kepler (believe it or not).

After a while we started to see further towards the other side of the valley and then that meant we would turn left and start descending. I knew it would be steep there by looking at the gradient lines on the map.. but it was worse than expected. We could see the beautiful lake below but that also meant I could see blue out of the corner of my eye as we walked by it. Hard to pretend the trail isn't as steep when you see that far below you. 

Eventually, after passing an especially craggy part, the slope got less and less steep and then finally we were in shrubbery then woods. I was relieved. We even passed a trail runner and he kept running right next to even the craggy part with a drop! We passed a group of 4 people and then got to the hut about a mile later. 

Oh man those views

Snowy close-up

We could see down into the valley below us.

random waterfalls and cascades

Yet another nice cascade

After we got to this point- we could actually see the Tasman Sea! It's where that river meets the horizon... I'm not sure if you can tell.

Yay Tasman Sea and pretty mountains!

Trail is steep again here and there are even handrails since it's rocky, narrow, and slippery. No likey.

But look at those views

New mountains to see and a new valley

First glimpses of Lake Mackenzie

This is the rocky part where I was really uncomfortable from about 10-20 minutes.

Why is he even standing there? That's not even flat ground. That is a rock. Kevin, feel free to defend yourself in the comments.

Finally somewhere more comfortable. If you look back you can see the trail and the craggy dark bit.

I've never been so happy to see trees!!!!

I love you pretty, mossy trees. You're the best.

Seeing Lake Mackenzie Hut in the distance and man those mountains at the end of the lake are pretty cool.

We managed to get two of the last four bunks.. all of the other spots were beds next to each other with no space between you and another stranger. Talk about lucky that we passed that group of 4 in time. After settling in, we decided to walk around Lake Mackenzie. We were surprised to see that the trail lead to something called split Rock which turned out to be a pretty cool thing (see pics).

Well that's one way to prevent flooding

Lake + Mountains

Split Rock. Hey look it goes all the way through the other end. Let's just go in. It hasn't caved in yet...

Just like the trash compactor in Star Wars: A New Hope

Almost to the other side

Ok my turn to get outside

Lake through the trees as we walk back

Mountains on the other side of the lake as we walk back towards the Hut

After our walk we just relaxed and played a board game until it was time for the hut talk at 8pm. The ranger spent an hour telling us about his conservation project which has considerably increased the bird population in the area. It was an interesting talk but it was pretty late when we were done. We packed our bags for the next day so we could quietly leave in the morning and then it was bed time.

Top bunk again. You can see the beds that the plebeians had to sleep in along the wall below us.

Nice little cubbies for our stuff

Day 2 Stats: 

8.23 miles, 6:22:54 total elapsed time, 1778 ft elevation gain (only includes first several switchbacks to conical hill), 2123 ft elevation loss 

Routeburn Track - Day 3 - 3/8/17

We woke up at around 6:30am the next morning and snuck down to the kitchen with our bags. We had breakfast and packed up and snuck a look outside. It was super clear and the pre dawn light looked really cool on Mt Christina (left) and the other peaks. As the sun rose the light changed.

Mt. Christina (on left) before dawn

Sun is coming up

First light hits the mountains

We then set off from the hut and began our walk which would began with some uphill into the trees. It was steep next to us, but the trees made it feel ok. Eventually the trail opened up with some views and we were able to see the morning Sun through the trees.

Bye bye Hut

Panoramic mountains with morning light beginning to hit them

After that we were in the trees again until we got to a flat, open area called "the orchard". We were sort of able to see the mountains from there.  After this point the trail leveled out and started trending downhill. 

At the Orchard

Behind us, at the Orchard. 

After that we got views here and there through the trees and eventually made it to Earland Falls (174m). There was a bit of a steeper descent after that until we finally made it to Lake Howden Hut. It looked nice but staying at Lake Mackenzie was certainly nicer.

Spot 2 waterfalls - go

Valley below us

First cascade

Getting closer to Earland Falls

Finally at Earland Falls

Forest changes after Earland

Cool shaped trees

Lake Howden

Kevin relaxing on a bench in front of Lake Howden Hut

After Lake Howden the trail climbed steeply for about 15 minutes until we finally got to the turn-off for Key Summit. After missing out on Conical Hill, I was definitely doing this one, but no worries because the trail wasn't scary at all! 

There were well graded switchbacks in shrubbery that allowed for awesome views of the valley and mountains. Then the summit area was huge and mostly flat with a nice 30 minute nature walk. The views were simply spectacular.

We went under that. Yet another example of.. well... I guess it hasn't moved in a while.

Starting to go up switchbacks to Key Summit

Higher up on the switchbacks

At Key Summit - nice tarn there

Key Summit pano

We went up without our packs. That was nice.

A higher viewpoint past Key Summit that let's you look down on the lake and the wide summit area.

After Key summit it was only a 45 minute or so downhill walk to the car.. and there it was waiting for us at the Divide. We hopped in and drove to Te Anau to refuel both our tummies and the car. We had a nice meat pie each and shared an Afghan cookie. 

Downtown Te Anau is a hopping place (not)

After this we drove to Queenstown and checked into our lovely bed and breakfast with an amazing view of town. It was a nice treat after sleeping in a sleeping bag for a few days. 

Alpine Suite Queenstown

Not too shabby

Another angle of our view

Pano from the grass out front

That night we went downtown and treated ourselves to a nice dinner at a Maori themed restaurant called Blue Kanu. We enjoyed another lovely Queenstown sunset and then that was that. Queenstown must be one of the most beautiful locations I have seen for a town...

Queenstown docks just past sunset-  part of the main walking area is there on the right

Ducks :)

Day 3 Stats: 

9.42 miles, 5:01:29 total elapsed time, 1480 ft elevation gain, 2726 elevation loss

OVERALL Stats: 

28.9 miles, 11:26:17 *moving* time, 6913 elevation gain